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Kalahari — South Africa, Namibia, Botswana

Meeting the San of the Kalahari

Where to spend time with southern Africa's oldest peoples on their own terms: community-run places, ancient rock art, and how to visit respectfully.

The San have lived in southern Africa for tens of thousands of years, and their rock paintings cover cliffs from the Drakensberg to northern Botswana. Today about 160,000 San people live across five countries, most of them in Namibia and Botswana. Several communities now welcome visitors and run the experience themselves. Choose those places, and your money supports the people you came to meet.

Before you go

Who the San are
About 160,000 peopleRoughly 71,000 in Namibia (2023 census), 63,500 in Botswana, 16,000 in Angola, 7,000 in South Africa and 1,200 in Zimbabwe.
Names
Use their own namesMany prefer the name of their own people, such as Ju/'hoansi, Naro or ‡Khomani. "Bushmen" is an older term that many find offensive; in Botswana the term Basarwa is used.
Languages
Click consonantsSan languages belong to the Khoe, Tuu and Kx'a families and use clicks as consonants. Most San also speak a national language such as Afrikaans, Tswana or English.
Easiest visit
From R100Entry to !Khwa ttu, an hour from Cape Town. San-guided tours there cost R180 to R320.
In Namibia
N$50 to N$600Per person for the nine programmes at the Living Museum of the Ju/'hoansi, open daily 08:30 to 17:00.
Staying in the Kalahari
About R5,000 a nightPer person sharing at !Xaus Lodge for visitors from outside southern Africa, with all meals, drives and activities.

Sources: population and languages (Wikipedia, citing national censuses), !Khwa ttu (Cape Town Magazine), Museums Association of Namibia and South African Tourism, checked 2 November 2026. Prices change, so confirm before you go.

Why it matters where you go

Choose community-run, not a "village show"

Some tours still treat San people as a spectacle, with little of the money reaching them. The places below are owned or run by San communities or their trusts, employ San guides, and put earnings back into the community. Before you book anywhere else, ask who owns it, who guides, and where the money goes. The San's land rights are still debated; in Botswana, moves of residents out of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve led to a long court case, and the government says the moves were voluntary.

Where to go

South Africa · Near Cape Town

!Khwa ttu San Heritage Centre

A heritage centre and museum on the West Coast, with exhibitions created with San communities and tours led by guides of San heritage, including food and tracking walks. The easiest place to start.

About 70 km from Cape Town on the R27; open daily 9:00 to 17:00

South Africa · Kgalagadi

!Xaus Lodge

A community-owned lodge deep in the red dunes of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, with game drives, dune walks, night-sky outings and dawn tracking with ‡Khomani San guides.

Stay at least two nights; about 100 km from Twee Rivieren gate

Namibia · North-east

Living Museum of the Ju/'hoansi

An open-air museum where Ju/'hoansi families share bush skills, crafts, songs and stories in hands-on programmes. You can try shooting a bow or Ju/'hoansi rope skipping.

Nine programmes, N$50 to N$600 per person

Botswana · Ghanzi area

Dqae Qare San Lodge

A lodge, campsite and wildlife area at D'Kar run by the Kuru Development Trust, a San organisation. Revenue pays staff and community projects such as fresh water and a preschool.

On the overland route between Maun and Namibia

Botswana · Rock art

Tsodilo Hills

Four hills in the north-west with more than 4,500 rock paintings, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001 and sacred to the San and Hambukushu who live nearby.

Remote; best reached by 4x4 or light aircraft

South Africa · Rock art

The Drakensberg

Hundreds of rock shelters with San paintings of eland, hunters and rain animals, some thousands of years old, protected in the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg World Heritage Site.

See it with a guide at a rock-art centre

How to visit respectfully

Before and during

  • Book through the community, or with a tour that names the community partner and says how it benefits.
  • Ask before every photo, and accept a no. Some programmes include a photo fee; pay it.
  • Pay the set fee rather than handing out money, sweets or gifts to individuals, especially children.

Afterwards

  • Buy crafts directly from the makers or the community shop, where the price goes to them.
  • Share what you learned, not just the photos, and use people's own names for their community.
  • Remember it is their home, not a museum, even where the programme is called one.

When to go

The Kalahari is a semi-desert of red dunes and grassland, with big swings between day and night.

Dry winter

  • May to September brings warm, clear days and the most comfortable walking and tracking.
  • Nights are cold and can drop below freezing in the deep Kalahari, so bring warm layers.
  • Wildlife gathers at waterholes, which helps game drives.

Hot, green summer

  • November to March is hot, with afternoon storms that turn the grass green.
  • Some sandy tracks get harder going after rain; check access before driving.
  • !Khwa ttu, on the Cape coast, is pleasant to visit all year.

What to pack

Pack for hot days, cold nights and long walks on sand.

Warm layers

Desert nights in winter can drop below freezing.

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Binoculars

For birds and game on walks and drives.

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A head torch

Camps and lodges are dark, and the night skies are worth staying out for.

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Sun protection

A wide-brimmed hat and high-factor sunscreen for the open dunes.

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Closed walking shoes

For tracking walks in sand, thorns and dry grass.

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A power bank

Electricity can be limited at remote camps.

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Sunglasses

For the glare off pale sand and salt pans.

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A reusable water bottle

Drink often in the dry air, even when it feels cool.

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